HTFTSS how to find the shiny shit
Ongoing prospecting series

How To Find The Shiny Shit

This is the running field lesson series for people who want to get less romantic, less random, and slightly less shit at prospecting. We’re starting from the assumption that a lot of readers know bugger-all, and that’s fine. No miracle nonsense. No mystic bush whispers. Just practical lessons on what the gear does, how gold behaves, how the ground works, and how to build better habits without pretending any of this gets mastered in a weekend.

One living page, ongoing chapters, and enough room for the series to get weirder and more useful over time.

What this is

Not a course. Not a guru act.

Think of this as a blunt running notebook for prospectors who want cleaner habits and better thinking. Each chapter tackles one mistake, one field lesson, or one way to stop fooling yourself.

How to use it

Read a chapter, then go outside and test it

The series is built to be practical. Read the lesson, take the idea into the field, and see whether your own ground starts making more sense. We’re learning and refining this as we go too, so the point is steady improvement, not pretending the whole map is solved already.

Series contents

Current chapters and planned lessons

Use this page as the series hub. Chapters 1–4 now have their own dedicated pages, because one giant scroll starts getting a bit feral.

HTFTSS #1

Stop Looking Like a Tourist
Live now — the first field-brain reset.

HTFTSS #2

Finding gold in wet and dry creeks
Live now — how water energy, bedrock, bends, cracks, and old channels decide where the shiny stuff actually hangs up.

HTFTSS #3

Panning: The Basic Skill That Still Matters
Live now — how to sample properly, read concentrates, and stop washing your own gold away like a genius.

HTFTSS #4

Crevicing: Robbing the Cracks Properly
Live now — bedrock cracks, trapped heavies, small tools, and why ugly little spots can beat pretty creek sections.

HTFTSS #5

Highbankers: Processing More Dirt Without Losing Your Mind
Live now — what a highbanker does, when it makes sense, and when it is just noisy overkill for your situation.

HTFTSS #6

Detector or Pan? Pick the Right Weapon
Planned — how to choose the right tool for the ground, your goals, and your level of obsession.

Read the series properly

Dedicated chapter pages

Chapter 1

Stop Looking Like a Tourist

Chapter 2

Finding Gold in Wet and Dry Creeks

Chapter 3

Panning: The Basic Skill That Still Matters

Chapter 4

Crevicing: Robbing the Cracks Properly

Chapter 5

Highbankers: Processing More Dirt Without Losing Your Mind

Main site

Jump back into the practical pages and buying guides.

Chapter 1

Stop looking like a tourist

Most beginners don’t fail because gold is impossible to find. They fail because they rock up like excited tourists, wave a detector or a pan around for a bit, and expect the bush to hand them treasure out of politeness. It doesn’t work like that. You need to stop looking at the whole landscape like one big lucky dip and start paying attention to where gold would actually bother to sit.

Quick take

The short version

Don’t start with “where would it be fun to search?” Start with “where would heavy gold logically settle, slow down, trap, or get left behind?”

The mistake

Beginners search vibes, not ground

They walk into the bush, see open space, and start swinging. Or they hit a creek and pan whatever patch looks easy to reach. That is tourist behaviour. Gold does not care what looks convenient, scenic, or emotionally encouraging.

If your search pattern would make sense to someone who has never thought about gravity, water flow, bedrock, wash, or old workings, you are probably just sightseeing with extra steps.

The better mindset

Look for traps, not wishes

Gold is heavy. That means you should be asking where heavy material slows down, drops out, gets trapped, and stays put. Inside bends, cracks in bedrock, downstream of obstructions, old wash zones, low points, and changes in flow all matter more than whether a spot feels lucky.

Prospecting starts getting less random the second you stop asking where you want gold to be and start asking where it had no choice but to end up.

How to stop being obvious

Your first ground-reading checklist

1. Find the heavy-material logic
Before you touch a pan or turn on a detector, ask where the heavier stuff would naturally settle compared with the lighter rubbish.
2. Look for interruptions
Big rocks, bedrock cracks, shallow drop-offs, changes in creek shape, wash lines, and old workings are all clues. Gold likes getting hung up where the easy ride ends.
3. Ignore the scenic bullshit
Pretty creek sections and wide open swing-friendly flats are not automatically good ground. Ease and beauty are not prospecting indicators.
4. Test small, think hard
Do not commit your whole day to a dumb guess. Sample small spots, compare results, and let the ground tell you whether it is worth more effort.
5. Respect old-timer logic
If there are signs of old workings, there was at least a reason someone bothered. That does not mean easy gold remains, but it does mean the area earned attention once.
Creek example

If you are panning or crevicing

  • Start with cracks, crevices, and low-pressure zones
  • Look for black sand and heavy concentrate clues
  • Work the spots where material gets trapped, not just deposited loosely
  • Check behind and below obstructions, not just on top of easy gravel bars

A tiny ugly crack full of trapped heavies is usually a better bet than a beautiful patch of easy loose gravel.

Detector example

If you are detecting

  • Do not just wander and swing because the ground is flat enough
  • Pay attention to old workings, quartzy float, ironstone, wash indicators, and terrain change
  • Slow down in likely patches instead of treating the whole paddock equally
  • Cover less ground with more intent rather than more ground with no thinking

A detector does not fix lazy ground reading. It just gives lazy ground reading a battery.

The line to remember

Gold is not hiding from you. It is obeying physics.

If a spot only feels good because it is easy, comfortable, or looks romantic in the afternoon light, that is not prospecting logic. That is bush cosplay.

The whole game gets better once you stop thinking like a hopeful tourist and start thinking like a suspicious bastard reading clues.

Chapter 2

Finding gold in wet and dry creeks

If chapter one was about not prospecting like a tourist, this is the next correction: stop treating every creek like the same machine. Wet creeks and dry creeks can both hold gold, but they do not present it the same way. The common rule is simple enough — gold is heavy, water moves it, and it settles where energy drops and traps start doing the work. The part people stuff up is assuming that means “check any bend” and call it fieldcraft. Real prospecting is a bit more suspicious than that.

Quick take

The creek rule that matters

Do not ask where the water was. Ask where the water lost enough punch for heavy material to drop, then ask what stopped that heavy material from moving again.

The part beginners miss

Creeks sort material by violence, not fairness

A running creek is constantly classifying material. Light rubbish keeps moving more easily. Heavier stuff needs more energy to move and drops sooner when the flow slackens. Gold is one of the heaviest things in that mix, which is why it tends to end up in low points, cracks, false bottoms, hard-packed wash, and bedrock traps instead of floating around politely waiting to be found.

Gold does not settle where a human thinks a creek looks nice. It settles where current loses leverage and the shape of the ground gives it nowhere better to go.

What to look for first

Traps beat scenery

  • Exposed or shallow bedrock
  • Cracks and crevices running across or slightly against flow
  • Inside bends and slow pockets below faster water
  • Rock bars, drop-offs, and little ledges
  • Heavy concentrates like black sand and compacted gravel
  • Old wash layers, benches, and signs of earlier creek positions

The ugly little trap that interrupts flow is often worth more attention than the broad easy gravel bar everybody wants to love.

Wet creeks

Read active water like it is trying to rob you

In a wet creek, the current is still showing you what the sorting system looks like. Faster water strips and carries. Slower water drops and stores. That does not mean every calm patch is rich, but it does mean changes in speed are worth your attention. Look where current comes off a fast run and relaxes. Look behind larger rocks. Look at bedrock exposed during lower flow. Look at cracks that are catching heavy sand rather than loose fluffy rubbish.

  • Inside bends can be good because flow slows compared with the outer bank
  • Behind obstructions can be good if the trap is real, not just shallow decorative gravel
  • Crevices in exposed bedrock can hold surprising amounts of fine and rough gold
  • Natural riffles, little drop-offs, and hard bottoms deserve testing before random open patches

Low summer water can make wet-creek prospecting much easier because the good hard-bottom traps are easier to actually reach and clean out.

Dry creeks

Read the flood memory, not the empty channel

A dry creek can fool beginners because it feels inactive. It is not inactive. It is a frozen record of where water used to move hard enough to sort material. In dry channels, you are basically reading old flood behaviour. The same rules still apply — bends, pinch points, bedrock, trap lines, old gravels, hard-packed layers, and places where heavies would have dropped out when energy changed.

  • Do not just scrape surface sand and call the creek tested
  • Try to find the older compacted layer, wash, or bedrock contact underneath the loose top stuff
  • Pay attention to calcrete, cemented gravels, ironstone-rich zones, and old channel edges
  • Dry gullies below old workings or known auriferous slopes are worth extra suspicion

A dry creek is not dead ground. It is a creek whose useful clues are buried in shape, stratigraphy, and flood history instead of obvious moving water.

How to work a creek without wasting the day

Your first proper attack plan

1. Walk it before you work it
Do one pass just reading shape, bends, bars, obstructions, exposed rock, and any old workings or disturbance. Don’t start flogging the first easy patch like an impatient galah.
2. Find the hard bottom
Loose top gravel can be worth checking, but the better question is what is underneath it. Gold likes hard bottoms, cracks, compacted wash, and any spot where it stops sinking and starts trapping.
3. Sample ugly little traps
Test the narrow crevice, the pocket behind the rock, the inside-bend pinch, the seam of heavies, the low point on bedrock. Small targeted samples beat random heroic labour.
4. Compare, don’t marry a guess
Run a few small tests in different trap types. If one style of spot is producing colour and the others are dead, lean into the pattern instead of clinging to your first hunch.
5. Follow the gold logically
If you get colour, ask what fed it, what trapped it, and where the same logic repeats nearby. Prospecting gets better when one result teaches you where to test next.
Wet-creek mistakes

How people waste good flowing water

  • Panning the nearest shallow edge because it is easy to stand in
  • Ignoring bedrock because loose gravel looks faster to process
  • Working broad bars without checking where the heavies actually concentrate
  • Assuming every inside bend is rich without checking the trap quality
  • Leaving crevices half-cleaned because the first scrape looked poor

A crevice is either cleaned properly or it is still an unanswered question. Half-arsed crevicing teaches you bugger-all.

Dry-creek mistakes

How people waste empty channels

  • Treating surface sand as if it represents the whole channel
  • Ignoring old benches and side channels because they are not in the obvious centre line
  • Not digging down to the compacted wash or bedrock contact
  • Failing to imagine flood energy and only reading the creek in its dry-state appearance
  • Testing huge areas too shallow instead of small areas properly

Dry creeks punish lazy imagination. If you cannot picture how floodwater sorted the place, you are mostly just scratching dirt.

The line to remember

Read the energy, then read the trap

Gold in a creek is not there because a spot looked lucky. It is there because moving water lost an argument with gravity and the creek shape gave the gold somewhere to stay.

Wet creek or dry creek, the method is the same: find where the force changed, find where the heavies dropped, and find what stopped them moving again.

Chapter 3

Panning: the basic skill that still matters

Panning is not the cute beginner activity you graduate out of once you buy shinier gear. It is the basic field skill that teaches you what heavy material looks like, whether a spot is worth more effort, and whether your theory about the ground has any legs at all. If you cannot run a sample cleanly, you are half blind out there. The pan is not just for recovering gold. It is for learning how the creek is sorting material and whether you are standing in the right bloody place.

Quick take

A gold pan is a field test, not a souvenir bowl

The point is simple: remove the light rubbish, keep the heavies, and learn what the sample is telling you before you waste an hour chasing the wrong patch.

Why it still matters

Panning teaches you the language of heavies

When you pan properly, you start seeing the creek as a sorting machine instead of a muddy mystery. You notice black sand, lead shot, tiny iron bits, garnets, dense little pebbles, and the way heavier material packs down. That matters because gold rarely turns up alone. It often turns up with other dense material that tells you the spot has enough trapping power to be interesting.

A pan will not make bad ground good, but it will stop you lying to yourself about what the ground is doing.

Why detector users should care

The pan is still useful even if your main weapon is a detector

  • It lets you confirm whether a creek, gully, or wash is actually carrying gold
  • It helps you test new country before you commit whole days wandering it
  • It teaches you where heavies concentrate, which sharpens your ground reading everywhere else
  • It gives you a recovery method for fine gold and specimen crumbs a detector might miss or ignore

A detector finds metal. A pan teaches judgement. You want both.

What the pan is actually doing

Sorting by density, size, and your own competence

1. Break up the sample
Clay balls, roots, and compacted lumps trap fine gold and fake you out. Rub them apart under water instead of treating the sample like pre-washed cereal.
2. Stratify the heavies
Shake the pan flat and controlled so the dense material settles to the bottom. That puts the gold where you want it: down low and protected.
3. Wash the light stuff away in stages
Tilt the pan slightly and let water peel off the lighter top layer a bit at a time. If you go full cyclone idiot immediately, you can absolutely wash fine gold out with the rubbish.
4. Re-set and repeat
After each wash, flatten, shake, and settle the remaining material again. Good panning is repetitive on purpose. Every cycle improves separation.
5. Finish gently
When only a small concentrate remains, slow right down. Fine gold is where impatience becomes self-sabotage.
Beginner mistake

People panic-wash the whole bloody sample

The classic rookie move is to shovel a full pan of gravel, swish it about theatrically, and dump half the contents before the heavies have even settled. That is not panning. That is random material relocation. If the sample was worth testing, you have just thrown part of the answer downstream.

Speed without control is how you convert possible gold into a lesson for the fish.

Better habit

Run small clean samples and learn from each one

Start with manageable pan loads. Classify or remove the bigger junk if needed. Work methodically. Pay attention to what stays in the pan near the end. Is it mostly black sand? Are there little shotgun pellets? Tiny lead bits? Rusty heavies? A few colours? That concentrate is a report card from the ground.

A clean small sample teaches you more than a heroic messy one.

What to watch for in the pan

Read the concentrate, not just the gold

Black sand

Not magic on its own, but often a sign the spot is holding heavier material. If black sand is concentrating, the trap has at least some sorting strength.

Lead shot and dense rubbish

Lead is another heavy clue. If little pellets are hanging up, gold can too. It does not guarantee riches, but it means the physics is at least cooperating.

Flat fine gold vs rougher bits

Flat floury gold can travel differently from chunkier rough bits. The shape and size of what you find can hint at transport distance and trap quality.

Clay and packed heavies

If fines are bound into clay or a compact seam, break it up properly. Gold loves getting hidden in the boring sticky crap people rush past.

A simple teaching workflow

How to use panning to make better decisions

1. Pick three sample spots
For example: a bedrock crack, an inside bend low point, and a random loose gravel patch.
2. Take similar-sized samples
Do not compare a proper crack clean-out with one lazy scoop from a dead patch and pretend the test was fair.
3. Pan each sample carefully
Same method, same patience, same finishing care. The cleaner the process, the clearer the comparison.
4. Record what remains
Gold colour, black sand amount, lead shot, coarse heavies, clay, packed wash, bedrock contact — write it down or at least pay proper attention.
5. Follow the winning pattern
If the bedrock cracks are outperforming the loose gravel, stop romancing the gravel. The ground just told you where to focus.
Common panning mistakes
  • Overfilling the pan and making clean separation harder
  • Not breaking up clay and compacted lumps
  • Trying to finish too fast once the concentrate gets small
  • Ignoring what non-gold heavies are telling you
  • Using inconsistent sample sizes and then drawing big conclusions

If your panning method changes every time, your results are harder to trust.

Good habits worth stealing
  • Classify or hand-remove oversized rubbish before the careful finish
  • Keep your motions deliberate rather than dramatic
  • Finish the last spoonful of concentrate like it might actually matter
  • Compare traps against each other instead of marrying the first sample
  • Use the pan to learn the ground, not just to hunt a photo for social media

The pan is one of the cheapest things in prospecting and one of the most educational. That should tell you something.

The line to remember

If you cannot process a sample, you cannot properly read a spot

Panning is not beneath you, outdated, or just for tourists. It is the basic lab skill of field prospecting: a small cheap method for finding out whether your ideas about the ground are rubbish.

Learn to pan cleanly and you stop guessing so much. That alone makes it worth mastering.

Now live

HTFTSS #3 — Panning: the basic skill that still matters

This chapter is now part of the series below. It covers what a pan actually does, why panning still matters even if you want to detect, how to read heavies and black sand, and how not to wash your own results into the bloody creek.

If people understand creek traps but still cannot process a sample properly, they are only half learning the game.

Useful side roads

Pair the series with the practical pages

The series works best alongside the main buying and field pages, so people can jump from practical lessons into gear and setup advice without getting lost.